|
Post by ksheppard on Jul 31, 2008 21:58:01 GMT 2
Hey guys, I was just reading through some of the posts and I think it was Cholerix who said that logitech's need some tweaking with the FF to get it to work with NH. I can't get my DFP to work very well with NH, I get a big dead spot in the middle...car turns but there's no resistance, then as I turn, the resistance shows up about 30deg. off centre...hmmm just occurs to me, would this have anything at all to do with the wheel lock setting. (not likely it's really a shot in the dark out of desperation ) So anyone got a few screenies or something to help an old guy out with some of the 'special' settings my controler needs. I don't even know if it's done in the profiler or in heat itself.
|
|
|
Post by Harding Jr on Aug 1, 2008 5:32:14 GMT 2
Have ya tried changing the dead spot in heat under advanced options in control's. I race with a PS2 controller and when 1st playing I had a huge dead spot but tweaked it down to where I wanted and its been perfect . I hope this helps.. Harding
|
|
|
Post by Administrator on Aug 1, 2008 10:27:47 GMT 2
There's a file advanced.txt in Heat main folder. It has some description about FF parameters that can manually be adjusted in option.cfg - especially deadzone parameter By default, you'll even have remaining deadzone if you set it to zero in ingame options. You have to put in some negative value in options.cfg to eliminate ANY deadzone. Had same problem with my wheel; works perfectly now
|
|
Crash
Administrator
Posts: 328
|
Post by Crash on Aug 1, 2008 16:54:01 GMT 2
I don`t have any technical help to offer, but i did find something interesting with my old Logitech-Wingman Formula GP wheel. I thought it ready for the scrapheap & had intended buying a G-25. My old wheel was always a trifle jittery & a touch erattic in the steering, the pedals used to play up a bit also. Sometimes gas pedal would not disengage properly in-game , sometimes only 75% brakes. But when i hooked it up to my new PC, which is running Vista OS, everything is solid as a rock. No problems with wheel at all, better than the day i bought it 5 years ago. That`s without any Logitech software on PC too. Cheers...
|
|
|
Post by ksheppard on Aug 1, 2008 21:03:06 GMT 2
Sorry to hear that Crash guess that means you didn't have to buy a G25 after all, my condolences m8 Thanks for the tips guys, I'll fiddle and post some screenshots or numbers when I find something I like
|
|
|
Post by ksheppard on Sept 22, 2008 2:34:45 GMT 2
So my device settings aren't great but not too bad, hope this helps.
LOGITECH DFP Profiler, Global Device Settings: overall strength: 110% Spring effect: 110% Damper effect: 110% enable centering spring is ON centering spring strentgh: 100% report combined pedals is OFF degrees of rotation: 270
Excerpts from NH Options.cfg file note original values are indicated with []
ff_deadband_width -0.000000 [0.15] ff_dont_trash_inband_spring no [no] ff_inband_damping 0.000000 [0.3] ff_inband_spring 5.000000 [0.3] ff_jolt 5.000000 [1.0] ff_outband_damping 0.000000 [0.1] ff_outband_spring 5.000000 [1.0] ff_torque_gain 12.000000 [3.0] force_feedback yes [yes]
|
|
|
Post by Petty43 on Sept 23, 2008 2:30:36 GMT 2
I have had these problems with Logitech Wheels. Formula Force, and what i use now which is wingman formula force gp the red one. I've noticed with logitech wheels that after some time tend to want to turn right and have a little dead spot. Take the wheel apart, there will be a white gear. Basically you can use a toothbrush to smear the existing lube. It tends to all work to sides of the gear. Relube your gears. You can also mark the white gear at it's center position (so you remember where you started) and move the gear a 1/4 turn. I just adjusted the white gear and smeared the existing lube and works like new. With the pedals. Take them apart, clean and re-lube. Once you take the parts apart, really is pretty basic stuff when it comes to Logitech wheels, and pedals. Hope that helps.
|
|